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secondary undulations, 1

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facing (partially opened) Plate XXXI (Mareograms), (detail; 90º ccw)
“An Investigation of the Secondary Undulations of Oceanic Tides, carried out by the order of The Earthquake Investigation Committee during 1903-1906.” Journal of the College of Science, Tōkyō Daigaku, Rigakubu. Vol. 24 (1908)
University of Illinois copy, no date of digitization
Marine Biological Laboratory (MBL) and Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution (WHOI) copy, opens (to opened plate) at archive.org.

“...the course of the current is nearly parallel to the line of equal depth. In such case, the presence of standing waves with the land and the current as the boundaries is a matter beyond dispute. The current will not behave exactly like a solid shore, but on account of its high speed, it will partake the nature of a quasi-elastic solid, making the waves rebound. It resembles a liquid jet in the ocean; it will oscillate with periods peculiar to itself; it will thereby be capable of transmitting vibration to the bounding waters; it will be set in forced vibrations by earthquakes and other causes.”
ex Preface by H. Nagoka,   pp vii-viii.
 

1 November 2015

tags:
fluid pendulums; horizon; mareograms; rounds; seas; undulations; waves